9 Mar 2012

Florence's Hair is a muse for Nicholas Kirkwood

As Nicholas Kirkwood walked us through his colorful, Paris in the ’20s-inspired fall collection (yes, part of that has to do with seeing Midnight in Paris he told us), we couldn’t help but pause at a shoe with a face and an actual ponytail attached to the heel. And how did this shoe come about?

The shoe, he told us, was inspired by Jean Cocteau and Elsa Schiaparelli, and the hair came from a wig shop. The hair color is important, too. “It’s like a Florence and the Machine kind of red,” Kirkwood said. “The thing is there were about 12 different reds and I wanted that auburn-y color that she has.”

As for the rest of the collection, Kirkwood used vintage fabrics from the ’60s, frills down the heels of shoes, and covered a pair of boots completely in feathers so they looked like fur. My favorite detail was an enamel and metal bow attached mid-heel on several shoes. “It’s like jewelry for your heels,” Kirkwood explained.

And after watching that model stumble so many times in Giuseppe Zannotti’s shoes at Anthony Vacarrello’s show we had to ask, does he ever worry about models falling in his shoes? This season Kirkwood did the runway shoes for Peter Pilotto, Erdem and Suno. “I had a girl fall in Rodarte,” Kirkwood said, “but quite often [models fall] because they’re wearing shoes that are a few sizes too big.” Still, Kirkwood added, “You definitely think about it. I just try to predict if something is going to be too difficult to walk in before hand. It’s less of a problem now than two years ago–the heels were so high and girls kept falling.”

Those bow heels look just right.


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